Atlas

Lennox Hastie be a brave man. To open a Sydney restaurant entirely devoid of conventional cooktops, gas or electricity, and instead start riffing on that cornerstone of Australian cookery: barbecue. Risky, right?

Well, it seems the British-born, Europe-trained chef’s endeavours with open flames at Firedoor – cooking exclusively on a woodburning hearth, two wood-fired ovens and three grills – has hit the right tasting notes: Hastie scooped the prestigious title of Chef of the Year at the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Awards 2020. It’s the city’s top seal of culinary approval – and neatly arrives right in time for Firedoor’s fifth anniversary. Hastie, who spends A$60,000 (US$40,000) a year on firewood, says the technique’s unpredictable, primal nature is exactly what appeals to him: “Every time I cook with fire I learn something new about the ingredients. It’s a continual journey, exploring the diverse cultures of Australia.” That means unusual indigenous plants like karkalla on the menu, but also a charred, sliced-open crayfish – that’s right, he’s not too high-minded to throw a shrimp on the barbie.